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Micro Pavé Engagement Rings

The focus of this article is to illustrate some of the differences in micro pavé engagement ring styles, design elements and setting styles.

If you are looking  for a more thorough description and definition of Micro Pave. Please see our Pave? or Micro-Pave? article linked here:

http://www.knoxjewelers.biz/blog/category/micro-pave/

Hand Cut Micro Pavé Engagement Ring Examples

We will start with some hand cut Micro Pavé examples. Hand cut Micro Pave refers to a diamond setting style in which each little prong holding the diamonds in the ring design are cut out by hand. As well as cutting out each little prong, the diamond setter will also also cut out the area under and around where the diamond is to be set so as to give the setting style a nice aesthetic as well as help show off the micro pavé diamonds.

We only offer these hand cut micro pave setting styles in Platinum rings as other metals are not as ideally suited for this type of detailed hand work.

Here is  an extreme close up photo (macro shot) of a hand cut micro pavé engagement ring. We call this setting style, U-cut, which is a good descriptive of the U shape area cut out underneath each diamond. As mentioned, this hand cut pattern  helps accentuate the micro pave diamonds and also lends the design a very attractive aesthetic.

Here is another very close up example of a hand cut micro pave engagement ring. Note on this example how the U-cut style was also incorporated into the micro pave halo around the center diamond.

Here is a top view of the same U cut Micro Pave halo design engagement ring.  This view illustrates how this setting style minimizes how much metal shows and thus accentuates the micro pave diamonds.

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Tags: fish tail, fish tail micro pave, Fish Tail pave, fishtail, fishtail micro pave, fishtail micropave, fishtail pave, french cut, french cut micro pave, french cut micropave, French Cut Pave, hand cut micro pave, Micro Pave, Micro Pave engagement rings, pave, u cut, U cut micro pave, v cut, V cut micro pave | Categories: Micro Pave Styles

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Split Shank Engagement Rings

At last count we had upwards of 50 split shank engagement ring designs with new and custom versions coming out on a regular basis. Many of these split shank engagement rings have micro pave set diamonds in the design. Others include a diamond halo. We wanted to feature some of our more popular split shank engagement rings designs in one article so that someone unfamiliar with our website or store could look and compare many different designs on the same page.

Please note that the images are linked to the rings product page which will have additional photos and possibly a video of the ring.

The first split shank design is a very clean and simple split shank design with pave diamonds. The center stone is a 2 carat round center diamond.

2.20 carat cushion cut diamond in a very elegant split shank engagement ring

Here is a micro pave split shank design with a round micro pave halo

Here is a very similar design with an Asscher shape center diamond

Here is a Split shank design with a round center diamond in a cushion shape diamond halo, the design also features a surprise diamond

(click through to other photos to see surprise diamond)

2.00  carat princess cut set in a beautifully delicate micro pave split shank design

Speaking of halos, the signature look of our Cielo design is the combination of a split shank with a halo. We have made this design for just about every shape center stone, here are a few:

Another round center diamond version…

One more…

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Tags: Asscher, cushion, Cushion Cut, cut, diamond halo, engagement ring, Engagement rings, halo, Micro Pave, pave, princess, split shank | Categories: Unique Engagement Rings

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Cushion Cut Engagement Rings

Cushion cut styles are in vogue. We will show a few of our recent cushion cut designs here (we have many more in the engagement ring categories of our web site)

Cushion cut diamonds can have very different looks… and here is why:

(1) Cushion cut diamonds come in many different shapes (outlines) ranging from rectangular to square and everything in between.

(2) Cushion cut diamonds will also have many various looks based on how rounded the corners of the stone are, making for many very unique looks.

(3) Cushion cut diamonds can have different faceting patterns which makes for a wide variety of possible looks that are all classified as ‘cushion cut’

Cushion cut diamond halo engagement rings

The following photos are linked to the respective rings product page, which will have many more photos and usually a high definition video of the ring as well.

This design is from our hand cut micro pave collection and it features  a cushion cut center diamond with micro pave diamond halo. This design is hand cut in Platinum only which allows the master diamond setters to maximize the size of diamonds used in the design

Another design from our hand cut micro pave collection, featuring a cushion cut center diamond with micro pave diamond halo.

Here is a popular bezel set cushion cut design with a raised halo that allows a matching band to sit underneath.

Here is a custom Cushion cut design featuring micro pave, split shank, octagonal halo and custom hand made filigree. Since there is a lot going on in this design, I will post a couple photos to show the detail.

Here is a clean design featuring a bezel set cushion cut diamond and a diamond halo. These ‘low slung’ bezel set designs are popular with people that are concerned about a ring sticking up too high off the finger or snagging or scratching.

Here is essentially the same design with a diamond pave band

Here is a cushion cut center diamond set in a micro pave, split shank, halo design.

Here is another thin design that allows a matching band to sit perfectly flush. This cushion cut engagement ring design features a sexy double micro pave halo.

Here is a beautiful cushion cut engagement ring design with half moon shape diamonds on each side. The design also has three diamond halos and filigree in the side gallery of the ring.

Here is a custom bezel set version of the above design:

Side view… note the three sided pave band and gallery featuring hand made filigree & a custom butterfly element

Here is a ring with a similar three stone design, except with bezel set triangle diamonds and a trellis gallery.

This cushion cut diamond engagement ring features a rectangular cushion cut diamond center stone flanked by two round brilliant cut diamonds in an elegant three stone trellis design.

This Cushion cut diamond engagement ring features a 1.00 carat center diamond. The ring has a very vintage look with hand made filigree and hand engraving adorning the elegant lines of the design. The center cushion cut diamond is highlighted by claw prongs which gives the ring a sexy, delicate look.

This cushion cut engagement ring features a sexy thin diamond band with a square cushion center stone.

Here is a bezel set cushion cut engagement ring design with a halo and diamond pave in the band.

More to come soon…

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Tags: cushion, Cushion Cut, Cushion cut diamond, cushion cut diamond engagement ring, Cushion cut diamond ring, cushion cut halo ring, Custom engagement ring, diamond, engagement ring, Engagement rings, halo, micro, Micro Pave, pave, ring | Categories: Cushion Cut

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A look behind the scenes of making a custom version of our “Passion” ring

I thought I would post a little look behind the scenes with a unique custom engagement ring in progress.

Our local customer wanted a custom version of our “Passion” design, shown below in the first four pics. It is a very unique ring design with channel set carre cut (square step cut) diamonds and round micro pave diamonds covering nearly every available area.? This unique engagement ring also features hand wrought filigree.

We needed to start from scratch as we needed the new ring to fit a 1.50 carat radiant cut diamond ( the original Passion design was designed for about a 3/4 carat asscher, princess cut or radiant cut)

Here are a few photos of the larger version of our ‘Passion” design in our 3-D software. This software provides the ultimate in “What You See is What You Get” technology as you will soon see later in this thread.

Notice the red areas on the under side of the shank and halo elements. These areas will become the sprues or inlet areas for the molten metal during the casting process.

Once the design is completed in our 3D software, an actual physical prototype of the design is made that can be cast into metal. The results of casting process give us a raw casting of the design, from which, our artisans begin their magic.

Here are a couple photos of the raw casting.

Notice how many sprues ( the inflow areas for the molten metal) we built into the design to facilitate a complete casting in the casting process. This is a very important step in the manufacturing process. It allows for uniform filling of the model in the casting process, which makes for problem free castings with no porosity issues or problems that could detract from the durability and longevity of the finished ring.

The raw casting must be prepared for stone setting by filling off the sprues and generally cleaning up the lines of the mounting.

Although it does not look like it, the ring is actually 18 karat white gold, I know it looks yellow in the photos but the metal is not that yellow in real life.

I think it is a combination of the very off white color of 18KWG combined with less than optimal camera settings, lighting, etc.

Most of the starter holes in the casting will need to be opened up some more for the diamonds to fit correctly.

The little beads (prongs) that will hold each little round diamond have to be formed by hand. This is very time consuming to do at the quality level we want on these designs.? This type of setting is called pave or micropave.

Here are a few more pics of the ring at about half way stage of completion.

The platinum filigree was added on the inside of the ring.

Approx 1/2 of the small round diamonds are set

One channel of the Carre cuts are channel set.

Still a lot of work to go…

Once all the diamonds are set, all of the refining of the details and finishing touches must be applied.

Just the diamond setting labor (not counting design work, prototyping, casting) for a ring with this level of hand work will have approx 32 man hours of labor when finished.

After the diamonds have been set, the goldsmith will start to form borders around the diamonds (bright cutting) as well as preparing the intended areas of the ring design for milgraining.

Well done milgraining by hand is very time consuming as the diamond setter must first form a sharp ridge or rail (see red arrows in examples 1 & 2) around the area where the diamonds are set.

This cutting or forming of the ridge (or simply a border in some cases) is called bright-cutting, as the goldsmith uses a sharp tool (graver) to form a pointed ridge or rail that will later be worked or formed down into a beaded edge (mil-graining) using a mil-grain tool.

As usual the trick to anything that is well done is in the preparation.

Finally, after all the diamonds are set and the borders around the diamond sections are carefully formed by hand (brightcut) and the bright-cutting of the rails for mil-graining are completed, the ring is meticulously polished and prepared for the final step in the process which is the mil-graining.

Here are the final pics of the completed ring:

Here is the link the ring’s product page on our website which has a Hi-Def Video of the ring.

Tags: antique, Asscher, carre, carre´, channel set, channel setting, Custom engagement ring, custom ring, design, filigree, Micro Pave, mil grain, mil graining, pave, ring, square baguette | Categories: Custom In Progress

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