Ring Metal FAQ
We always recommend our 950 Platinum-Ruthenium alloy. It’s the best metal for engagement rings and wedding bands.
The most important characteristic in Platinum jewelry is Platinum’s resistance to metal loss caused by normal wear & tear. When metal is rubbed against another object, a little bit of that metal is rubbing off onto the other surface. If the metal is Platinum, the amount lost is exponentially smaller than the amount that would rub off from a gold item. This translates into Platinum rings lasting two or three times as long as a similar gold ring.
Our Platinum Alloy is the Best
Our 950 Platinum-Ruthenium blend is the best Platinum alloy for jewelry. It has the best combination of tensile strength and hardness amongst all Platinum blends. Tensile strength refers to the durability of the metal and hardness refers to the scratch resistance.
More common Platinum alloys like 950 Platinum-Iridium are softer and tend to scratch and bend almost twice as easy. Manufacturers typically use this blend because of it’s ease to cast and work with. Often times, you’ll see or hear of Platinum engagement rings that scratch very easily and/or have become bent. These are most likely made of 950 Platinum-Iridium.
Our Platinum won’t do that. We purposely use a stronger alloy so you can enjoy your rings for a lifetime.
- Extremely Durable – Lasts a Lifetime
- Naturally White – No Rhodium Plating
- Denser Metal – Holds Stones Better
- Uses 100% Precious Metal
- Hypoallergenic – No Allergies
- Very Inert Metal – Resists Corrosion and Weakening
- Cost – More Expensive than White Gold
Our white gold is a blend of gold and nickel alloy. Nickel gives white gold its whitish color and helps increases the metals hardness. While nickel helps in whitening white gold, it doesn’t completely make it white. Our alloy does require Rhodium plating every six months.
We also work in 18k White Gold. This alloy has more precious gold and is a little heavier than 14k White Gold. The natural color is very comparable to 14k and does require Rhodium plating.
All of our white metal jewelry items will look virtually identical coming out of our shop. After several months of wear, a white gold ring may need to be re-plated where as a platinum ring is always white. After a decade or two, a white gold ring may require re-tipping of prongs and channels. Platinum wears away at a much lesser rate than white gold and it is not uncommon for Platinum to last a lifetime.
- Less Expensive than Platinum
- Very Hard to Scratch
- Easy to Size
- Not as Durable as Platinum
- Not White – Requires Rhodium Plating
- Possible Allergic Reactions
- Negative Reactions with Chlorine
We work in both 14k and 18k Yellow Gold. These alloys are softer than there white counterparts. Rings made in yellow gold are more prone to wear and tear than white metals.
- Less Expensive than Platinum
- Easiest to Size
- Not as Durable as White Gold
Platinum is about 1.6 times heavier than White Gold. Comparing two identical rings, one in White Gold and one in Platinum, the Platinum one is automatically 1.6 times more in price. Another factor is the much higher percentages of actual precious metal used in Platinum blends, the Platinum blend we use is 95% Platinum, compared to the typical Gold blends that are only 58% Gold (14K) or 75% Gold (18K)
Due primarily to the density of Platinum, it is much more difficult to achieve a perfectly polished finished surface. Therefore, it takes much more labor to produce a Platinum ring over an identical White Gold piece.
Platinum is at least twice as expensive and can at times be 3-4 times as expensive as a White Gold ring. The exact amount is based on many variables.
Because Platinum is renowned for it’s durability, we highly recommend having the crown or prongs of your ring made in Platinum. This will help protect your diamonds and gemstones longer than Gold.
What is White Gold?
How is White Gold Made?
What is The Best White Gold?
What is White Gold Alloyed With?
Are All White Golds the Same?
First, an explanation of white gold and gold alloying. 14K gold is alloyed with other metals to achieve certain colors and/or workability attributes (malleability, ductility, etc.).
The different colors are self explanatory E.g.; whiter alloys such as silver or nickel mask the natural yellow of pure gold. Workability characteristics will vary considerably depending on the mix of the alloy metals. Pure gold is very malleable and easily worked into various shapes, forms, wires, etc. However, pure gold (24K) is generally considered too soft for rings. Almost all yellow gold blends are much more workable and ductile than their white gold counterparts. Most white golds are alloyed with nickel, a very white and very hard metal.
The ideal workability attributes necessary for a hand wrought item will often require a different mix of alloy metals than the normal mix of alloys for a cast item. Some of the popular alloy metals for white gold are copper, silver, zinc, nickel and in some of the newer blends, Palladium.
The white Gold blends that are alloyed with palladium are growing in popularity as they provide very workable castings and at the same time avoid many of the negatives issues associated with Nickel alloy mixes. It should be noted that these Palladium white Gold blends are typically not as bright white as some of the high nickel content blends.
14K white gold is 58% pure gold. The other 42% of metals used to make the 14K white gold and help mask the yellow of the predominant metal (58% pure gold) will vary considerably as the various gold manufacturers and casters look to develop gold blends with the best mix of whiteness and wear attributes. The same holds true for 18k White Gold, which is 75% pure gold.
Refiners, manufacturers, and jewelers experiment to find the optimal mix of alloys for their applications.Historically, some of the whiter blends of white gold have been some of the poorer performing alloys with regard to durability and longevity of jewelry items. The problems stem from the difficulty of mixing the different alloys to combine and make a homogeneous blend of metals that will be workable, malleable and otherwise suitable for jewelry making.
This is an immensely complicated issue as any change in casting temperatures or any change in the complex casting process can have an effect on the malleability, workability of the cast metal. It is quite common to have casting problems in white gold that may lead to future problems with the item of jewelry, two of the big problems are:
(1)Porosity in the metal. Actual voids or unfilled areas in the casting that lead to weakness or even failure of the cast item.
(2)Brittleness or lack of ductility.
Nickel has been a very popular alloy metal to use for white gold because of the very white color and the hardness it gives the white gold alloy. However, many white gold alloys that contain nickel may not be optimal for smaller elements of jewelry designs such as crowns (the prong elements that are used to hold diamonds) as these smaller elements may be prone to weakening and eventual breakdown due to the corrosive behavior of nickel in these white gold alloys, especially in conjunction with any exposure to environments that have chlorine such as pools, spas, etc.
It should be mentioned that nickel is also associated with allergic reactions which is not a good thing to have happen with an engagement ring or wedding band.
There have been many recent advances in new white gold alloys from? the major precious metal refiners that service the jewelry manufacturing industry, all trying to find that magic mix that will remedy the above mentioned problems in many white gold mixes and provide a workable and white mix.
Stuller Settings, a major manufacturer and supplier to jewelry stores : http://www.stuller.com/apps/images/kbpdfs/x1.pdf has a new blend of white gold called X-1 that is very white. Other refiners and manufacturers are also coming out with versions.
Bottom line, if you are considering a white gold jewelry item, be sure your jeweler is aware of the many recent advancements and products available. If your jeweler is aware of these choices they should also be able to recommend the optimal blend for the application as there may be design specific issues that could affect the choice.
What is Rhodium plating?
Does white gold discolor or turn yellow over time?
Are all white gold rings Rhodium plated?
How much does it cost to Rhodium plate a ring?
How long does Rhodium plating last?
With the recent popularity of white metals, we are asked similar questions more and more frequently. The answers depends on several factors that I will explain below.
Rhodium plating has been the method of choice to give most white gold items the bright, white look of platinum and nearly all white Gold jewelry items sold in the US market are Rhodium plated.? As explained in our section on White Gold, there are many white gold mixes available in the marketplace all having varying degrees of whiteness which would best be described as a “similarity to platinum” Rhodium is a member of the platinum group of metals and is probably too brittle to use to make rings by itself, but this brittle characteristic makes for a very durable finish or plating for other metals such as white gold.
Rhodium plating on a new ring should last six months to a year until the plating will be noticeably diminished. The actual layer of rhodium applied in the plating process is microscopic (maybe a few microns thick) the rhodium plating will eventually wear off every ring it is applied to.
Typically it is near the bottom of the ring where the loss of the plating will first be noticeable; this is due to the wear and tear on this area of the ring. Conversely, the top area of the ring and areas with diamonds or engraving, etc. will retain the rhodium finish longer as these areas are less prone to the wear and tear. As well, rings with large polished areas will make the inevitable wearing away of the rhodium finish more noticeable.
There are other variables that may affect the longevity of the rhodium finish. Individuals body chemistry, occupational and life style wear and tear.
To properly rhodium plate an item, the item should first be polished and then thoroughly cleaned to the point of being absolutely clean of any dirt, oil or even a finger print which could prevent a nice even plating of the item. After the standard cleaning methods of heated ultra sonic cleaning and steam cleaning, the item should also go through an electro-cleaning process where the surface of the jewelry item is activated by electricity in a heated cleaning solution.
If there are yellow gold elements or areas of the ring such as in two tone rings, these yellow Gold areas will have to be “masked” with a substance ( fingernail polish is popular) so the yellow area is not plated white.
Like anything else, results will vary, especially if shortcuts are taken. If fewer of the above described cleaning steps that are used in the process, the rhodium finish could wear off in the first month.
In the last few years rhodium plating has become a more expensive service to provide as rhodium prices have sky-rocketed to $6000.00 per ounce. Expect to pay between $25.00 to $60.00 for a complete Polishing, cleaning and Rhodium plating of a ring. Two tone designs may be more due to the necessity of masking the areas that are not to be plated.