| Ring Design FAQ |
| |
|
| |
| |
| Many customers ask, why is platinum so much more expensive than white Gold? |
| |
It is because of the following facts:
(1) Platinum is almost twice as dense as 14K Gold, which means the same ring in platinum is almost twice as heavy as the same ring in 14K Gold.
(2) Platinum jewelry is 90 percent or 95 percent precious metal (.900 Platinum or .950 Platinum.)
Contrast this with a 14 karat Gold being approximately 58 percent Gold (14/24 = 58%) This means that there is much more precious metal in a platinum ring.
(3) Platinum is more rare and therefore usually more expensive and price sensitive (volatile) than Gold.
(4) Platinum requires much more time (labor costs) in manufacturing and finishing. It can easily take two or three times as long to finish a platinum item. |
| |
| |
| What about Platinum rings versus White Gold rings? |
| |
Knox Jewelers Recommends Platinum for any ring holding diamonds or precious stones.
We feel that platinum is the metal of choice for most diamond rings and we stand behind that statement by offering a free lifetime diamond replacement warranty on our Platinum rings. It should be mentioned that our recommendation for Platinum is based on the very durable characteristics of the exact blend that we use at Knox Jewelers (see info below)
Different Platinum Alloys Will Have Drastically Different Durability Characteristics
We now manufacture virtually all of our platinum rings in 950 Platinum Ruthenium (it is the same blend that Tiffany & Company uses) This alloy is one of the most durable platinum blends available and it is vastly superior to the 95/05 Platinum/Iridium blends which are commonly sold.
Anyone considering a platinum ring should be sure to ask for a quote in 95% Platinum / 5% Ruthenium as this blend probably has the ideal mix of attributes with regard to hardness and scratch resistance. Because Plat/Ruthenium is harder to cast, many jewelers do not use this blend.
Conversely, 95/05 Platinum/Iridium blends are easier for the jeweler to cast and finish. What is not commonly known is the fact that this 95/05 blend of Platinum/Iridium is very soft and is therefore very prone to scratching and even bending/fatiguing in smaller sections or elements.
|
| |
| |
| Pros and Cons of a Platinum Ring (950 Platinum Ruthenium) |
| |
PROS |
|
CONS |
Never Yellows. Always stays white |
|
More expensive than white Gold |
Hypo-allergenic |
|
Large polished areas may show scratches (patina) |
White color compliments diamonds |
|
Sizing or repairs are more expensive |
Will Last a Lifetime |
|
|
|
| |
| |
| Pros and Cons of a White Gold Ring (traditional Nickel alloys) |
| |
PROS |
|
CONS |
Less expensive than platinum |
|
Possible allergic reactions to alloy metals |
Easier to size or repair |
|
More yellow than platinum. Needs more maintenance |
|
|
Prone to Corrosion, brittleness, breakdown |
|
Other White Metal Options
There are a couple new white metal alloys that we have been using for a few years that effectively bridge the once great divide between white Gold and platinum.
18K Palladium White Gold
Is a blend of 75% Gold with the remaining 25% of the alloy containing Palladium and possibly other metals with the exception of Nickel. This alloy has many of the benefits of platinum and fewer of the problems associated with Nickel based white Gold alloys.
This new 18K Palladium alloy since it has no Nickel, has none of the Nickel allergy problems that many people experience, as well this alloy has none of the corrosion and durability problems associated with the Nickel alloys.
As an added bonus, the alloy is quite white and many people feel that it does not need rhodium plating. Our opinion is that the metal does look better rhodium plated.
Palladium is a member of the platinum group of metals and has wear and working properties similar to platinum.
Ask us about making a ring in this new alloy for you.
950 Palladium
950 Palladium is by far the whitest of the non-platinum white metals
This Palladium blend containing 95% Palladium is a very white option and will not need rhodium plating. Because there is no Nickel used in the blend, there are no Nickel allergy concerns and also none of the corrosion problems associated with the Nickel alloys.
It should be mentioned that items cast in 950 Palladium are somewhat soft and prone to scratching, bending, etc. Additionally, 950 Palladium has some specific metallurgical characteristics that make it a less than perfect candidate it for all designs, specifically designs with cast in place center crowns, cast in place open/airy gallery elements, etc.
|
|
| If you still have any questions or concerns that were not addressed here, don't hesitate to call our experts. We will have straight answers to your questions. (612-823-8752) |
| |
What is a crown or head? |
| |
| 90% of engagement rings use a crown to hold the center diamond. Both crown styles above are manufactured in a 'die struck' method as opposed to being cast. Die struck crowns are vastly superior to cast crowns in the same way that a forged (die struck) hand wrench is vastly superior to a cast wrench. |
| The crown is the prong assembly that holds the center stone in the engagement ring. |
| Crowns for round diamonds usually have 4 prong or 6 prong versions. A 6 prong crown is more secure, but most people agree that a 4 prong crown is a cleaner, more elegant look. |
| The crowns are soldered or welded to the ring , this allows a particular ring design to accommodate different size or shape center stones. |
| Some ring designs have a integral crown that is part of the ring (cast in one piece) and is not interchangeable. |
|
| |
| |
| What is the best metal for my crown? |
| |
| Platinum is the best, 14K Palladium is second best. |
| Over ninety percent of crowns are white metal; platinum or white Gold alloys |
| We highly recommend that you use a die struck platinum crown or a die struck 14K Palladium alloy crown to hold your diamond. |
|
| |
| |
| What are the Pros and Cons of using a platinum crown? |
| |
PROS |
|
CONS |
| Platinum has no memory or springiness, prongs pushed down to hold a diamond are more likely to stay down. |
|
3-5 times more expensive then 14K white Gold |
| Very dense, durable metal, may last a lifetime. |
|
Taller Platinum crowns/prongs may bend easier than taller 14K Crowns |
| Very inert metal, will not exhibit breakdown or corrosion problems common in 14K crowns. |
|
|
| White metal color complements all stones |
|
|
|
| |
| |
| 14K white Gold Nickel alloy crowns should be used as a last resort |
| |
| 14K white Gold Nickel alloys are notorious for the weakening and or corrosion of prongs, crowns, connections, etc. over time potentially resulting in stone loss. Unfortunately, there are not Platinum or 14K Palladium crown options available in every style or stone shape or size. In these situations where it may be necessary to use a 14K Nickel crown, we recommend more frequent inspections by an expert (at least twice per year) |
| |
| |
| I prefer a platinum crown, but it's so expensive, are there any other safe alternatives? |
| |
| A new white Gold alloy that does not use Nickel is 14K white Gold Palladium alloy. |
| 14K Palladium alloy is much less likely to break down over time as Nickel alloy. |
| Palladium 14K is a relatively new alloy used in making crowns and therefore not available in all size and shape crowns. |
|
| |
| |
| Our Recommendation for Platinum vs. White Gold crowns: |
| |
| If it is in your budget, Platinum is best. |
| |
